EBS MetalDrive SE Universal Distortion Pedal

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Q2: Cables. The patch cables I use have been accumulated over the years. All kinds and varying in length to fit. Whenever I identify a bad one, I throw it away... but that doesn't mean that they're all great... and perhaps the cumulative effect of all those cables, if a few of them are not great, can have a noticeable effect... so my question is... there are lots of patch cables advertised everywhere, some with pretty amazing claims (of course) so it's hard to decide which ones are really good and which ones are just exaggerating: which patch cables would people here recommend for a pedalboard the size of mine? Most can be pretty short but I need a couple of longer ones. Compact plugs are a bonus as they allow to organise the pedals better. THE EBS METALDRIVE DELIVER PURE, MEAN, METAL DISTORTION FOR BASS - AND BEYOND. A NATURAL EXTENSION OF THE MULTIDRIVE, FOR THOSE WHO NEED MORE... That's my feeling too: that it's probably one (or more) or the patch cables, or a particularly bad pedal but I've tried them all in isolation at various points and none seemed bad.

Q1: I generally use active basses, either a Stingray or a Schecter Model T (EMG)... which I thought would go some way to help matters, but perhaps I should consider putting a decent buffered bypass pedal first in the chain, especially as I sometimes use a passive Precision too. Probably a tuner would be the best idea although I like the one I'm using now (small but bright, good visibility in all conditions)... so maybe a dedicated buffer would be a good thing to use, such as the TC Electronic Bonafide (also small footprint). Any suggestions? Are you quite happy that the cumulative draw of all your pedals does not exceed the maximum allowed by your power supply? The thing that puts me off solderless kits is that I *feel* they're not very solid. Maybe it's just my feeling and they work beautifully, I don't know. I'm happy to solder anyway... but I prefer them already made (while I can solder well, I prefer to use my time doing other things, like reading BC 😛 ) This pedal keeps the same design as its big sister, in the positions tubesim or standard that it distorts the treble and midrange, the bass keeping quiet. Thus, the distortion obtained custody of the personality of your instrument. And that's good! Three positions (switch): tubesim (a little warmer to say), standard and flat (the distortion affects the whole spectrum of sound from which a more fuzzy).Distortion with full bottom! EBS MetalDrive delivers high-gain distortion for use in modern metal music, and other music styles that call for a mean distorted sound. It works equally well with guitar, and handle drop tuned guitars, 7-, and 8-string guitars without choking. The 2015 Studio Edition comes with a complete new design, optimized signal path, a new signal relay switch, protection against over voltage use up to 18V and can be powered with anything from 9-12V DC. Features DI (DSM OmniCabSim D eLux e - always on, but using the 'through' output to the amp, reserving the processed signal to send to FOH) Q2: Cables. The patch cables I use have been accumulated over the years. ...there are lots of patch cables advertised everywhere, some with pretty amazing claims (of course) so it's hard to decide which ones are really good and which ones are just exaggerating: which patch cables would people here recommend for a pedalboard the size of mine? DI (DSM OmniCabSim DeLuxe - always on, but using the 'through' output to the amp, reserving the processed signal to send to FOH)

I'm using a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 Plus, there's plenty left on tap as most of the pedals I'm using are very low current draw. It's a little overkill for my needs, but I bought it at a time when I was using a couple of hungry digital pedals plus the wireless system, and this coped with the lot very well, so I don't think power is the issue here.

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However if you are getting significant signal loss with an active bass, your bass already has a buffer in it, and adding another one won't make much difference. Signal loss after a buffer stage often means you have a damaged patch cable somewhere!

Basically, it says drive or fuzz (switch)? At what level of drive (distortion button) and what volume button (output). I already owned the There I am delighted: it retains the possibility of a slight push and drive, in addition, we may well distort the sound! I'm not a heavy effects user, and I only really use a non-small pedalboard in one of the bands I play in. I say non-small rather than large because I've seen the size of some of the boards some of the guys here have... some have a measurable gravitational field 😛 I would go for one of the many solderless cabling kits, I've had noise issues with the flat cables due to them using unshielded plastic plugs. I plan to test systematically the board removing one pedal at a time, to see if the effect is mostly due to a single pedal...Usually if the cables do not move a lot or get bent all the time, they should last for years. If there is any abuse, they should be inspected if something seems to change. These patch cables tend to be so short, their performance should be near excellent. My personal preference is to solder all cables from high quality silicone cables (Cordial, Gotham...) to reasonable lengths. Neutrik or thinner angled metal plugs.

Easy to operate. The pedal works in Standard, Flat and Tubeism mode with controls for Distortion and Output - simple but effective! The MetalDrive uses True Bypass. It can be set to get only slightly distorted as a drive or weigh (attention is not the pedal that will completely transform your sound mushy metal!)

I've been replacing, adding, changing things over the past few months, and I realised last week that I have a significant signal loss. The volume drop is noticeable and it feels a bit... muffled... just a bit, compared to plugging straight in, or through a single pedal (so that I still use the same long cables)